It's 8AM on a Saturday. Rafaela is 52 years old, smoking a cigarillo and talking to me about how she believes in true love. Metres away, two rats are rustling around in a car park. Over the last night and day I've spent around her, Rafaela has only had sex with one man, but says that, on a good night, it can be eight or even more. Sometimes it sounds like she's coughing. She claims to be an optimist, "though that doesn't help you much". By this point, Rafaela and I have known each other for about 24 hours.